Teaching English in Chengdu, China
Chengdu is the capital of Sichuan province in China and is a city with many faces. As a vibrant mondern center, Chengdu has blossomed in terms of affluence and investment but it has also retained traditional industries, including gold, silver, silk and laquerware. Current population estimates are over 10 million people.
Today Chengdu's skyline is dominated by skyscrapers and Japanese cars and Western goods are hugely popular andwidely available.
Chengdu plays an important role in terms of education and culture in China. There are 14 colleges and an impressive university situated in the city.
Chengdu has a long history dating back over 2300 years. It was one of China's first 24 cities given status as a famous historical and cultural cities by the State Council. It has long been a destination for learned poets and artists of China to gather and seek inspiration. The great Chinese poet, Du Fu, called Chengdu home. Check out one of the thousands of tea houses and see how the soothing environments and fantastic food can be inspirational.
This is a rather large transient population here where many travelers are simply killing time or passing through on their way to Tibet.
Traditional wooden Chinese architecture that once dominated this city can still be found in the outskirts although it is fast disappearing.
Chengdu is full of life. The markets and street hawkers fill the streets dealing in everything you could possibly image. Snakes, snails, dvds of new release movies for pennies on the dollar, fortune tellers or food vendors you name it you can probably find it. This is a great place to have some fun!
Chengdu also enjoys a subtropical monsoon climate characterized by an early spring, hot summer, cool autumn and warm winter. The average annual temperature is 16 degrees Celcius.
The best time to visit is between March and June or between September and November. The hottest season here is during July and August when temperatures can be almost unbearable although Chengdu does have a few nice spots (such as Qingchengshan Mountain) outside the city center where it is possible to get some shade and respite from the heat. This is also however the rainy season and it is awkward juggling the two types of weather at once! In summer the heat is wet with a high temperature of 35 degrees C and in winter, the average temperature is approximately 5 degrees C.
Food in Chengdu
The food is DEFINITELY worth mentioning in Chengdu. The whole region is infamous for it's Sichuan cooking, a famous familiarity in many of the most popular Chinese restaurants in your home country I would imagine.
The predominant ingredient in the food here is CHILI! And, if you thought you could handle a Vindaloo curry, then try some of Chengdu's spiciest food, laced with chili from top to bottom. Locals argue that chili is beneficial both in summer to help cool you down, and in winter, as a warmer. Makes sense to me?
According to Chinese legend chili also has medicinal properties and helps protect against illnesses which result from wet or damp conditions.
For those unaccustomed to spicy food, Sichuan dishes can be hard to handle. Chili used correctly however, is not supposed to be overbearing, but to bring out the flavors of a dish. Once you get used to the spice, it becomes easier to enjoy Sichuan food.
The most famous dishes from the region include Spicy chicken with peanuts (Gong bao ji ding), and spiced tofu with chili(Ma po dou fu). Many dishes here are served in a fish flavored (Yu xiang) sauce which is made from vinegar, ginger, sesame and soy.
Hotpot is also very popular here, and there are numerous restaurants and stalls serving up spicy pots to passers-by. There are over 10 varieties of Chengdu hotpot including hotpot with boiled mutton, and hot pot with beer duck and all are pretty spicy so beware!
The best places to sample typical Sichuan cusine in Chengdu are the Chengdu Restaurant and Grandma Chen's Beancurd Restaurant.
Other restaurants worth mention are:
- Chengdu Tong Ren Tang Imperial Meals Restaurant
- This restaurant is a one of a kind, first of its' kind where nutriment meals are unique not only for their good taste but also in having tonic effect. The main purpose of adding medicinal herbs to dishes is to impart flavor to food, ease up the five internal organs (heart, liver, spleen, lungs and kidneys) and maintain balance so as to help diners remain healthy. The Chengdu Tong Ren Tang Imperial Meals Restaurant, affiliated to the Chengdu Tong Ren Tang, a traditional Chinese drug store with a history of more than 100 years, is the first specialized nutriment meals restaurant in the country. Since its founding, it has found favor among the public. It is among the first group of restaurants qualified to receive foreign tourists.
Address: 2nd Floor, 1 Zongfu Road, Chengdu City
Tel: (028) 6750643 or (028) 6612746
- This restaurant is a one of a kind, first of its' kind where nutriment meals are unique not only for their good taste but also in having tonic effect. The main purpose of adding medicinal herbs to dishes is to impart flavor to food, ease up the five internal organs (heart, liver, spleen, lungs and kidneys) and maintain balance so as to help diners remain healthy. The Chengdu Tong Ren Tang Imperial Meals Restaurant, affiliated to the Chengdu Tong Ren Tang, a traditional Chinese drug store with a history of more than 100 years, is the first specialized nutriment meals restaurant in the country. Since its founding, it has found favor among the public. It is among the first group of restaurants qualified to receive foreign tourists.
- San Qing Tea House
- The tea house looks simple, elegant, small and exquisite. The indoor tablets, horizontal inscribed boards, a pavilion, a well and a hall have their own distinctiveness but also combine harmoniously. A large carved board with the cursive script of Canons on Tea by Lu Yu and Lao Zi's Dao De Jing in the hall, more than 12,000 characters long, is a unique art treasure. San Qing Tea House, located on the bank of the beautiful Jinjiang River, is next to the Jinjiang Hotel and Minshan Hotel.
Address: 10 Xinkai Street, Chengdu City, Sichuan Province
Tel: (028) 6657848
- The tea house looks simple, elegant, small and exquisite. The indoor tablets, horizontal inscribed boards, a pavilion, a well and a hall have their own distinctiveness but also combine harmoniously. A large carved board with the cursive script of Canons on Tea by Lu Yu and Lao Zi's Dao De Jing in the hall, more than 12,000 characters long, is a unique art treasure. San Qing Tea House, located on the bank of the beautiful Jinjiang River, is next to the Jinjiang Hotel and Minshan Hotel.
- Shizilou Hot-Pot Restaurant
- "Shizilou" is a famous brand of China's hot-pot dish. The restaurant specializes in serving yuanyang-hot-pot (half of the soup in the pot is spicy while the other half is not) to satisfy the appetites of different customers. The nourishing dish has unique flavor and is suitable to eat in all seasons. The Shizilou Hot-Pot Restaurant, the largest hot-pot restaurant in China, is a pillar industry of the Chengdu Baiwan Group Co., one of the country's top 500 private businesses. It has been given honorary titles by the government for its delicious dishes, reasonable prices, luxurious facilities, perfect service, rigid sanitation control and scientific management.
Address: 2 Wannian Road, Erhuanlu Dongsanduan, Chengdu District, Chengdu City, Sichuan
Tel: (028) 4338254
- "Shizilou" is a famous brand of China's hot-pot dish. The restaurant specializes in serving yuanyang-hot-pot (half of the soup in the pot is spicy while the other half is not) to satisfy the appetites of different customers. The nourishing dish has unique flavor and is suitable to eat in all seasons. The Shizilou Hot-Pot Restaurant, the largest hot-pot restaurant in China, is a pillar industry of the Chengdu Baiwan Group Co., one of the country's top 500 private businesses. It has been given honorary titles by the government for its delicious dishes, reasonable prices, luxurious facilities, perfect service, rigid sanitation control and scientific management.
- Chengdu Zhongyi Hot-pot Restaurant
- Zhongyi entire ox oil hot-pot, red-and-white yuanyang hot-pot and tonic "donkey meat soup pot" are available. Customers can choose from among more than 100 kinds of fresh meats and vegetables.
The restaurant, one of the special-grade enterprises in Chengdu City, enjoys the reputation of giving value for money.
Address: 99 Shuncheng Dajie, Chengdu City, Sichuan Province
Tel: (028) 6758218
- Zhongyi entire ox oil hot-pot, red-and-white yuanyang hot-pot and tonic "donkey meat soup pot" are available. Customers can choose from among more than 100 kinds of fresh meats and vegetables.
Tea Houses in Chengdu
Chengdu is one of the few remaining cities with a really authentic tea house (Chadian) culture. The thousands of teahouses dotted about Chengdu are hugely popular with locals, especially the elderly here, who spend hours on end sitting around sipping tea and playing games or cards.
Although tea houses are popular throughout China, the ones here are especially well known with a distinct and unique atmosphere. Chengdu teahouses were once traditional working mens clubs, where local men met to conduct business transactions and deals or to listen to storytellers and singers. Today, huge crowds surround card games in these places and the noise can really get quite overpowering! Others prefer to lounge around in the Sichuan bamboo chairs, chewing seeds or nuts. Teahouses throughout the city are still important locations for social gatherings. Local opera lovers and performers gather in many of the cafes although the "men only" atmosphere about the traditional tea house has long since disappeared.
Areas to Explore Around Chengdu
- Qingchengshan Mountain
- Qingchengshan Mountain (Qingchengshan) is one of the ancient cradles of Daoism. The mountain has numerous Daoist temples and sites along the paths to its peak. The area is green all year round and is known for its secluded tranquility.
Jianfu Temple (Jianfu Gong) sits at the base of the mountain and is a large, well-preserved Daoist temple from the Tang Dynasty. About halfway up the mountain sits Tianshi Cave (Tianshi Dong) the temple and school of Zhang Daolin, a famous Daoist master who taught here and contributed greatly to spreading Daoism in China. - Shangqing Temple is near the peak.
- How to get to Qingchengshan Mountain:
The mountain is 65km west of Chengdu, and is a good option for a long day trip from the city. Buses leave Chengdu from the north bus station every half-hour until 5pm daily. Buses also leave from the Ximen bus station every morning from 7am to 10am. The fares for the bus should be around 10RMB. - Where to stay:
Although Qingchengshan can be a day trip from Chengdu, it is also relaxing to climb part of the way, stay along the mountain trail at Jianfu Temple, Tianshi Cave, or Shangqing Temple, and then climb to the peak in the morning and enjoy the sunrise. Most accommodation should cost around 15RMB or 30RMB for an attached bath room. You may be politely shepherded toward 100RMB doubles, which may better suit your sensibilities if you are not on a backpacker's budget.
- Qingchengshan Mountain (Qingchengshan) is one of the ancient cradles of Daoism. The mountain has numerous Daoist temples and sites along the paths to its peak. The area is green all year round and is known for its secluded tranquility.
- Renmin Park
- Renmin Park (Renmin Gongyuan) is a charming and very typical Chinese park. Situated in the southwest of the city, this is a great place to relax and soak up some atmosphere while watching the taichi or wushu enthusiasts work out.
The park consists of a pretty bonsai garden, a children's funfair and a Monument to the Martyrs. These sites are all situated around a lake where you can hire pedal boats. The nicest way to see the park is just to spend some time wandering around and taking in the ambience of the city. The gates open here at 6.30 am when the martial arts enthusiasts move in, and close at 2am to allow for dancing to take place in the park squares. - Perhaps the best thing about this place however, is the wonderful teahouse in the grounds. Tea houses abound in this city and this is a particularly popular one with locals who come to sip, chat and stay all day!
- Location: Jinhe Lu
- How to get Renmin Park:
- Take trolleybus No.4 from the center of town.
Hours of Operation: 6:30am - 2:00am.
- Renmin Park (Renmin Gongyuan) is a charming and very typical Chinese park. Situated in the southwest of the city, this is a great place to relax and soak up some atmosphere while watching the taichi or wushu enthusiasts work out.
- Du Fu's Thatched Cottage
- Du Fu's Thatched Cottage (Dufu caotang) is the quaint former residence of one of China's most famous poets. Du Fu (712-70 AD) left home at the tender age of 20, becoming a court official at the former capital in Chang'an (near Xi'an). Du Fu's civil service duties did not last long however, and he was captured by rebels and forced to flee the city for Chengdu after only a few years. It was in Chengdu, at this small and simple house, that Du Fu was inspired to write more than 200 poems which are regarded today as masterpieces of realist poetry.
Du Fu actually achieved something of a cult status for himself and even today, numerous poets and artists site the great man's work as inspirational. The themes of Du Fu's work are simple, and he talks in length about the social and living conditions of his society. Perhaps the most important thing of all about this great man's work was that it was compassionate. This was especially inspirational given that there was such a lack of sympathy and concern elsewhere in society at this time. - In memory of the great poet, temples and pavilions were added to the site during the Song Dynasty. The exhibits here include a brief account of Dufu's life and some of his original calligraphy and poems. The complex also contains three imposing statues of some of China's greatest poets; Du Fu, Li You and Huang Tingjian (the latter two were Song dynasty poets). Today, this is a pleasant site to visit, with nice buildings dotted about, teahouses and pleasant bamboo gardens to wander and explore. This site is also home to the Chengdu Du Fu society.
- Address: The cottage is situated off Xi Yihuan.
Hours of Operation: Daily 9:00-17:00.
- Du Fu's Thatched Cottage (Dufu caotang) is the quaint former residence of one of China's most famous poets. Du Fu (712-70 AD) left home at the tender age of 20, becoming a court official at the former capital in Chang'an (near Xi'an). Du Fu's civil service duties did not last long however, and he was captured by rebels and forced to flee the city for Chengdu after only a few years. It was in Chengdu, at this small and simple house, that Du Fu was inspired to write more than 200 poems which are regarded today as masterpieces of realist poetry.
- Jianmen Shudao
- The Jianmen Pass (Jianmen Guan) and the Sichuan Road (Shudao) make up what was once the most important (the most direct) of the few routes into Sichuan and onto the Sichuan plain during ancient times. Presently, it is a major tourist destination that includes many cultural relics and sites.
Thoughout the area, the 72 peaks of Jianmen Mountain (formerly known as Sword Mountain (Dajian Shan) rise up like the fangs of a dragon or the points of straight swords. The peaks are dangerously steep due to water erosion. Its 72 peaks rise up high like sharp swords pointing directly into the sky. The rock faces around the Jianmen Pass are particularly steep, creating a perfect spot for a gate. - This pass was the most important of the three routes into Sichuan in ancient times. During the Three Kingdoms period, the prime minister of the ancient state of Wu, Zhuge Liang, had a large gate set up in the center of the Dajian Shan range of peaks. The gate pavilion was then named Jianmenguan (Sword Gate Pass).
- The Jianmen Pass (Jianmen Guan) and the Sichuan Road (Shudao) make up what was once the most important (the most direct) of the few routes into Sichuan and onto the Sichuan plain during ancient times. Presently, it is a major tourist destination that includes many cultural relics and sites.
- Wangjianglou Park - (River Viewing Pavailion Park)
- The River Viewing Pavilion (Wangjianglou) park is a lovely, historic place with forests of 100 varieties of bamboo! The yellow columns of bamboo with their thin green leaves cast wonderful shade and make a exquisite sound when the wind blows. The pavilion is more than 30 meters tall, overlooks the Jin River (Jinjiang), and was once the symbol of Chengdu. The pavilion itself was built in memory of Xue Tao, a Tang Dynasty female poet who loved bamboo and wrote many poems here. She reportedly drew water from a well that is also in the park grounds.
The park is in the southeast area of Chengdu, off Wangjiang Lu and with Sichuan University to the northwest. - Hours of Operation: 6:00am -9:00pm daily
- The River Viewing Pavilion (Wangjianglou) park is a lovely, historic place with forests of 100 varieties of bamboo! The yellow columns of bamboo with their thin green leaves cast wonderful shade and make a exquisite sound when the wind blows. The pavilion is more than 30 meters tall, overlooks the Jin River (Jinjiang), and was once the symbol of Chengdu. The pavilion itself was built in memory of Xue Tao, a Tang Dynasty female poet who loved bamboo and wrote many poems here. She reportedly drew water from a well that is also in the park grounds.
- Shunan Bamboo Sea
- The Shunan Bamboo Sea (Shunan Zhuhai) is a huge bamboo forest (120 square kilometers), 330 km south of Chengdu and 230 km away from Chongqing. It is recognized by the Chinese government as a major environmental protection area and one of the best tourist areas in China. On the other hand, as this area is in a rather remote region, the only true attractions for Westerners are the natural beauty of the bamboo forests and the charm of panda territory. As the main food of Panda bears is bamboo, the Bamboo Sea is a major panda reserve.
The area's climate is rather damp with plentiful rainfall and the sandy soil here is perfect for growing bamboo. - The area includes 124 scenic spots with colorful names such as Heaven King Temple, Demon Treasure Mansion, Meeting Immortals Cave, Black Dragon Lake, Seven Color Waterfall, Ancient Battlefield, Cloud Viewing Pavilion, Jade Corridor, Tea Mountain, and Flower Stream.
- The Shunan Bamboo Sea (Shunan Zhuhai) is a huge bamboo forest (120 square kilometers), 330 km south of Chengdu and 230 km away from Chongqing. It is recognized by the Chinese government as a major environmental protection area and one of the best tourist areas in China. On the other hand, as this area is in a rather remote region, the only true attractions for Westerners are the natural beauty of the bamboo forests and the charm of panda territory. As the main food of Panda bears is bamboo, the Bamboo Sea is a major panda reserve.
- Wenhua Park
- Wenhua Park (Wenhua gongyuan) is home to the biggest Taoist temple in Chengdu, the Green goat Temple (Qingyang gong). This is an active temple and it is VERY colorful, the result of numerous "renovations" which have turned the temple into a brightly colored collection of paintings and statues. Real and mythical animals and dragons adorn the walls and a HUGE statue of two bronze goats (symbolizing fortune) also stands here.
Hours of Operation: 6:00am - 8:00pm
- Wenhua Park (Wenhua gongyuan) is home to the biggest Taoist temple in Chengdu, the Green goat Temple (Qingyang gong). This is an active temple and it is VERY colorful, the result of numerous "renovations" which have turned the temple into a brightly colored collection of paintings and statues. Real and mythical animals and dragons adorn the walls and a HUGE statue of two bronze goats (symbolizing fortune) also stands here.
- The Giant Panda Breeding Research Institute
- The Giant Panda Breeding Research Base is the best place to see Chengdu's most famous residents. The city zoo is very depressing and best avoided but the institute 18 km from the town center, houses 12 bears in good conditions.
The panda has long been associated with China, and although they are no longer given as gifts to visiting officials, China's pandas still face the huge problem of extinction. The Museum here graphically details the bears reproductive problems and there is also a large Breeding ground at the site. It is rumoured that researchers plan to give the pandas the drug Viagra in an attempt to raise numbers. These creatures are notoriously reluctant to breed and scientists hope that by giving the pandas Viagra, they will boost the bear's sex drive and improve the chances of reproduction. - The center is located on the mountain of Futoushan in the northern suburbs of the city. Staff recommend that the best time to visit is in the morning, between 8.30 and 10 am, during feeding time. Outside these hours it's likely the bears will be indulging in their favorite pastime, sleeping!
- Location: Jiefang Lu
How to get The Giant Panda Breeding Research: - Cycle from the city. This is a nice 18km bike ride
- A taxi should cost approximately 85RMB from Chengdu center
- Take a tour from the Traffic Hotel. This is a convenient option and at 80RMB (including the entrance charge) is a pretty good deal. Enquire at the hotel for more information.
Hours of Operation: 8:00am - 6:00pm
- The Giant Panda Breeding Research Base is the best place to see Chengdu's most famous residents. The city zoo is very depressing and best avoided but the institute 18 km from the town center, houses 12 bears in good conditions.
- Wuhou Temple
- Wuhou Temple (Wuhou Si) is located in the outskirts of Chengdu, at the edge of the pleasant Nanjiao park. The site consists of a restored Tang dynasty temple, dedicated to the Shu dynasty prime minister and war strategist Zhu Ge Liang. Zhu Ge (181-234 AD) lived during the Three Kingdom's period and this character features largely in the famous historical novel, The Three Kingdom's written in the late Ming Dynasty.
Today, there is a large temple here containing a statue of Zhu Ge and an impressive Three Wonders Tablet, so called because it contains exquisite examples of calligraphy, carving and poetry. The tomb of the founder of the Shu dynasty, Liu Bei, is also here. This is an interesting place for those knowledgable in Chinese history and legend. Other travelers however, may find the site less engaging. - Location: Wuhou Ci Dajie
- How to get Wuhou Temple: Bus No.11 from Renmin Nan Lu.
Hours of Operation: Daily 9:00am - noon and 2:30pm - 5:00pm.
- Wuhou Temple (Wuhou Si) is located in the outskirts of Chengdu, at the edge of the pleasant Nanjiao park. The site consists of a restored Tang dynasty temple, dedicated to the Shu dynasty prime minister and war strategist Zhu Ge Liang. Zhu Ge (181-234 AD) lived during the Three Kingdom's period and this character features largely in the famous historical novel, The Three Kingdom's written in the late Ming Dynasty.
Entertainment in Chengdu
The main form of entertainment in Chengdu is Chinese traditional opera. The city is home to Sichuan's leading opera troupe, famous throughout the country and this is a great place to see some authentic Chinese art on stage. The main difference between Sichuan Opera and Beijing Opera lies in the fact that the themes of the former are more provincial and related to everyday life than their Beijing counterparts. All the opera here is performed in Sichuanese, a special rhythmic dialect and the costumes and face paints are colorful and impressive. Currently the best place to see Sichuan style opera is in the Chengdu Theater on Minzhong Lu and the Jin Jiang Theater on Huaxingzheng Lu.
Along with the influx of investment and the inevitable cranes and skyscrapers that are modernizing Chengdu, a fairly lively bar and cafe scene has emerged, helped by the fact that this is a stop off point for many travelers en route to Tibet. There are a few good bars around the Traffic Hotel serving good beer (the local brew is Blue Sword which goes down very well with spicy food!) and also doing western style food. Paul's Place is currently pick of the bunch. These are good places to meet other travelers and swap stories, to exchange some books or to use the internet. After dark, many of the bars in Chengdu get quite lively, staying open until the small hours of the morning. If you are after something a bit more hardcore, try the Huigui Reunion Bar on Yihuan Lu. This place is filled with cool city kids shaking their heads to the techno music blaring out.
There are thousands of Tea Houses all about the city which are nice places to soak up some local atmosphere. If it's something more active you seek, try the stadium on Renmin Zhong Lu where the Chengdu teams often have matches.
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